iPhone 12 mini Screen Replacement
Go to step 1If your iPhone 12 mini screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple or an Apple-authorized technician can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen. Additionally, your iPhone may temporarily show a warning about the “genuineness” of the display.
You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, as close to the edge as possible.
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If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner and along the right edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Insert your pick underneath the top-right corner of the display panel.
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Slide the pick around the top right corner. Because of the clips you might encounter some resistance.
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Slide the pick along the top edge and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
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Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
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Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove the 1.25 mm-long Y000 screw securing the battery & display connector cover bracket.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the battery & display connector bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the OLED panel cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the five 1 mm-long Y000 screws securing the front sensor assembly cover bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
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Remove the 1.1 mm-long tri-point Y000 screw.
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Remove the 1.8 mm-long tri-point Y000 screw.
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Remove the two 1.6 mm-long Phillips #00 screws.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the top right corner of the earpiece speaker and fold it to the back.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess.
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Slide a spudger underneath the wide sensor assembly flex cable to separate it from the screen.
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Use a spudger or a pair of tweezers to pry the flood illuminator out of its recess.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Flood illuminiator
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Proximity sensor
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Microphone
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